As predicted, today it rained, so I took a train to Levanto anyway (not one of the Cinque Terre villages but close by). When I got there the weather appeared to have cleared (and the forecasts confirmed this) and so I decided to do the Levanto to Monterosso walk - which links back to the walk I did yesterday. It goes over the promontory between the two villages and is supposed to take 2-3 hours. It started OK, it was only a bit slippery after the rain. The first part of the trail climbs among villas in various stages of repair and then cuts across the promontory through forest and rocky outcrops. Unfortunately, the weather changed a little bit into the walk: I heard increasing claps of thunder echoing off the coastline and spotted the occasional flash of lightning. It was time to put on the turbo charger and consequently I passed an amazing number (mainly French) walkers who were dawdling along as if it were a lovely sunny day. I was relieved to get to the top without it raining or being struck by lightning. I then did a rapid descent down a steep but good trail, consisting of steps) down to Monterosso. I did the trail in two hours non-stop. I was soaked but not from rain.
Shortly after getting to Monterosso it started to rain, so I went to have lunch to see out the storm. I found a restaurant (La Taverna) which was slightly off the tourist track (tourists just seem to stick to the main road) and it was great. My pasta serving was not huge (but the plate was but the service was excellent and it had the best ciabatta bread (free) that I ever had. Plus, the waitress must have thought I still looked a bit hungry after eating nearly all the bread and so gave me a free piece of pizza. What could I do but roundup up the bill in their favour.
By this time the weather had improved (that's the coast for you) and I took the train to another Cinque Terre village Riomaggiore, to have a look around. Again different from the other villages visited but built in an unbelievable spot. Then it was the train back to La Spezia where it was like the usual sunny day it has been all week.
In other news...
I had dinner in La Spezia last night and I wasn't sure about the customer service of the restaurant. To pay by credit card, the customer had to be taken to another cafe to pay the bill. The waiter had to go there too to get alcohol. I'm not sure what the laws in Italy are about carrying a glass of beer down the main street in town. Sitting next to me were (British) tourists who gave tourists a bad name. They wanted an analysis of every dish on the menu from the waiter. Then they wanted wine but they didn't know what they wanted (the waiter had to go next door for that too). Also gelatarias abound around here and regardless of the price, it's always excellent - I have sampled quite a few so far. I had pineapple flavour today.
I haven't said much about the hotel. There's a few positives: it was cheap. It's close to the train station. It has a view: of the train station and the hills behind it. For a three star hotel it has an incredibly good breakfast: it has a great range and excellent quality bread, ham etc. Even fancy cakes (Italians apparently eat cakes for breakfast). No skimping as you might expect. On the other hand, it's on a busy road and at times it feels like I am in the 1960s given the decor of the room. Plus the plumbing is interesting. There are all these random, funny, noises from time to time (luckily not at night). They also have a unique way of making you take short showers; the shower drains that slowly that if you are in there too long there is the potential for overflow. I haven't achieved that yet but I nearly did so the first time.
Tomorrow is something different; I am going to have a look at some dodgy medieval construction.
Shortly after getting to Monterosso it started to rain, so I went to have lunch to see out the storm. I found a restaurant (La Taverna) which was slightly off the tourist track (tourists just seem to stick to the main road) and it was great. My pasta serving was not huge (but the plate was but the service was excellent and it had the best ciabatta bread (free) that I ever had. Plus, the waitress must have thought I still looked a bit hungry after eating nearly all the bread and so gave me a free piece of pizza. What could I do but roundup up the bill in their favour.
By this time the weather had improved (that's the coast for you) and I took the train to another Cinque Terre village Riomaggiore, to have a look around. Again different from the other villages visited but built in an unbelievable spot. Then it was the train back to La Spezia where it was like the usual sunny day it has been all week.
In other news...
I had dinner in La Spezia last night and I wasn't sure about the customer service of the restaurant. To pay by credit card, the customer had to be taken to another cafe to pay the bill. The waiter had to go there too to get alcohol. I'm not sure what the laws in Italy are about carrying a glass of beer down the main street in town. Sitting next to me were (British) tourists who gave tourists a bad name. They wanted an analysis of every dish on the menu from the waiter. Then they wanted wine but they didn't know what they wanted (the waiter had to go next door for that too). Also gelatarias abound around here and regardless of the price, it's always excellent - I have sampled quite a few so far. I had pineapple flavour today.
I haven't said much about the hotel. There's a few positives: it was cheap. It's close to the train station. It has a view: of the train station and the hills behind it. For a three star hotel it has an incredibly good breakfast: it has a great range and excellent quality bread, ham etc. Even fancy cakes (Italians apparently eat cakes for breakfast). No skimping as you might expect. On the other hand, it's on a busy road and at times it feels like I am in the 1960s given the decor of the room. Plus the plumbing is interesting. There are all these random, funny, noises from time to time (luckily not at night). They also have a unique way of making you take short showers; the shower drains that slowly that if you are in there too long there is the potential for overflow. I haven't achieved that yet but I nearly did so the first time.
Tomorrow is something different; I am going to have a look at some dodgy medieval construction.
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