Mog's Blog: Falls Creek to Hotham Alpine Crossing

Hello, my latest trip was a three day bushwalk from Falls Creek to Mount Hotham, across the Bogong High Plains. I have not done such walking for a long time which involves carrying your tent, sleeping bag etc. Most of the recent multi-day walking I have done was in Europe, Nepal and NZ where there are huts and food is provided or there are cooking facilities. The first shock was the weight of the pack - 20kg which I managed to reduce to 18kg. I usually only walk with 5-10kg!

The first step was to get from Bright to Mt Beauty. Not a problem as there is a Vline contracted taxi service (which links with the Melbourne train/bus). However, at the scheduled departure time there was no taxi. I rang them and they explained that Vline doesn't advise them of bookings instead they rely on the bus driver advising them if there are any passengers on the bus from Melbourne going to Mt iBeauty. If there is they come to Bright, if there isn’t they don’t. The only problem with this system is that it assumes the passenger is on the bus from Melbourne (note to complain to Vline about the stupidity of this system). However, the taxi company was happy to come and pick me up, especially as they were taking me to Falls Creek the following day. Not a great start.

Day 1

The walk this day was from Falls Creek (Heathy Spur Track Car Park) to Ryders Yards campsite, about 14km). The sign at the start of the walk rated the walk as difficult. How can this be difficult – mainly flat and only 37km over three days? (note fateful words). Anyway, the weather was sunny, not too warm. Came across a lot of school groups – that’s one way to wear them out. Decided not to camp at Ryders Yards but instead camped near Cope Saddle Hut, as I was knackered and it would have meant a 2km return detour off the track, plus a large group were ahead of me headed to the campsite and I wanted a peaceful night (note fateful words). So I found a spot that had soft grass and was sheltered (note fateful words). What I didn’t realise was that I had camped next to the main route for researchers working on the High Plains. Two 4WD vehicles made return trips past my campsite. A school group also came past and the teacher asked me whether I was OK – I obviously felt better than I looked. Nevertheless, the spot was great, a view across the plains, sky was clear, with a light wind. Got into the tent about 8pm as it was getting cold. Fell asleep but awoke at 11pm as the wind picked up. I thought at least it’s not raining (note fateful words). It started raining at 2am and the wind picked up again (apparently the weather front which was supposed to arrive Friday night had come early). By 4am the rain had increased and the wind was giving the tent a battering. My main mission now was to ensure that the tent didn’t blow away with me in it. The tent was hanging in there but now the wind had increased again and the pegs failed on one side, I tried re-pegging it from the inside as I couldn’t get out of the tent as my weight, by now, was the only thing preventing the tent from blowing away. The tent was hanging on (and I was hanging on to the tent - I think you can picture this) but the wind had other ideas. It now appeared to be blowing from two directions and that was too much for the, up to now, resilient tent which just collapsed. At 6am I gathered everything and took it into the hut where I had breakfast and was able to pack my backpack.

Day 2

By this stage the weather was simply terrible: rain, wind and fog. But on the positive side I thought: today’s walk is only 10km to the next campsite at Dibbins Hut (a cattleman’s hut on the Cobungra River); the weather can’t stay this bad all day; and I was still in possession of my tent as it hadn't ended up in Mt Beauty. Well I had to walk those 10km non-stop, 3 ½ hours. There was nowhere to shelter, there was only heathland and grass, no trees. The tallest thing was the snow poles which marked the route (about 2 ½ m high and spaced every 40m). The rain was constant, the wind was so loud the only thing I could hear was my thoughts, it was as if a jet engine was on next to me. And if it was not for the walking poles I would have been blown over a few times. The fog was so thick I could only see two now snow poles ahead. When I started descending into the Cobungra Valley at least the wind died down but the rain only increased. After the worst day of walking in my life I reached Dibbins Hut soaked and tired. I then started getting cold, changed into thermals and started doing exercises to stay warm. Even though the hut is only meant for emergency use there is no way I was camping, I needed to dry out and I didn’t want any further hassles. A couple came down from Hotham after 4pm when the weather improved, saw me and decided to pitch a tent instead of staying in the hut. I went to sleep at 8pm to only the sound of the river. I had one of the best night’s sleep. I was not even disturbed by a resident mouse or rat that usually inhabit such huts.

Day 3

While it was not sunny, it was not raining and the clouds were high. However, it was a lot colder than previous days. Now that I was drier I could appreciate the beauty of this river valley with its snow plain, surrounded by hills. The cattlemen certainly picked a great spot.

It was only about another 10km to Mt Hotham – with about 600m of climbing, the first hour being the steepest. I took my time. I knew I was close to reaching civilisation when I started being passed by mountain runners (apparently lycra shorts are de rigueur for them too). As I walked along the road to Mount Hotham, with the prospect of a hot shower spurring me on, I was passed by cyclists coming up from the valley wearing shorts and distinctly blue legs as it was only a few degrees above freezing. I was glad it was all over.

For me it was one of the most challenging walks I have undertaken with the combination of pack weight and weather. Perhaps I am just getting soft or old, or both. When I finished I thought never again but now on reflection I might do something like this again but not long trips as I had anticipated doing. The mountain environment can be challenging but it is always rewarding too and that’s what makes it worthwhile.