Pustertal Bicycle Trail

Well the cycle tour has begun! I'm on day three now but after that first day I was knackered. 45 kilometres from Brixen to Bruneck on day one - lots of up and down which took me an embarrassing five hours. I was just as slow on day 2 (13kms an hour) from Bruneck to Innichen (last stop in Italy). It's a bit different hauling an extra 10 kilograms or so. The weather was good for the first two days  but today it rained (Innichen to Lienz in Austria) but through some miracle I missed most of it. It was a joy to beat the rain and to fly downhill for a change - only 2.5 hours for 42 kms. As you will see from the photos the scenery is great - through orchards, grape vines, green pastures - and now mountains Also chatted to a number of Austrians and Germans also cycling parts of the trail. The  first 2 days or so I was on the Pustertal trail which sometimes followed the river, sometimes the old railway line and sometimes straight over the top. I am on the Drava river trail now which tends to stick pretty close to the river and so it should be flatter. I will see how it goes.

Now for some observations....

Cyclists

I have come across different types. The tourers. These are doing what I am doing except they have panniers, skinnier tyres, and are hauling more weight than me! I saw one of them nearly killing himself trying to get his bike up the stairs to the platform at Venice. While my mountain bike has trouble up the hills (as does its motor) it flys in the gravel and in the wet and that's where I have the advantage with the fatter tyres. The next group are the weekenders - recreational cyclists doing long or short rides. These people are potentially dangerous if they are Italians. As soon as I got to a section of trail popular with them (near Toblach). It was on: standing in the middle of the path, riding two abreast, even riding on the wrong side of the trail. I also had the privilige of seeing the largest pair of lycra shorts I have ever seen, I didn't think they made them that size. Then there are the racers. They are also dangerous if they don't give you space. They are just trying to ride as fast as possible - for training or something. Finally, there are the locals who just use bikes for transport - especially from the outskirts of towns.  

I mentioned the respect drivers give cyclists - the exception are Italians (of course - I have had some run ins) and city drivers, Here in Lienz (the capital of the South Tyrol region) they are less gracious, even at pedestrian crossings (but that could be the German tourists - there are a lot about). I usually don't have time to check numberplates.

Festivals

Just about every town I visited in Italy had a festival on when I was there, in Brixen, in Brunneck (which had a wine thing on) and in Innichen it was market day. But a market day here does not just mean arts and crafts - it also means beer, food and a band. This particular band played for 5 minutes and then took a break for 5 - was it because most of them were on wind instruments and it was not possible to drink their beer while playing?

Food

There appears to be confusion about the origin of some food. A Weiner Schnitzel was referred to as a Milanese in Italy. And actually it was good they didn't call it a schnitzel as it was terrible. The one I had today in Austria - or rather 2 as obviously one piece was too small to qualify as a schnitzel - was different it was great but then it was from the Lienz Schnitzel World - specialists in all things schnitzel - one was remarbably similat to a parmigiana - but they use pork for all.

Same with salami - what is Milano in Slovenia (and Australia) is Hugarian salami in Italy. Its'sas if the Italians are in denial as it is a bit too plain and are now trying to blame the Hungarians.

Travel Tip

I have found that if you are asking for something which has an English name, like cocoa cola, you need to say it with a European accent - doesn't matter which one - and you will be understood.

And here are a lot of pictures...